Two racing games can look similar — until you try to drive them back to back. The driving style changes how you sit, how you brake, and even how useful triples or a handbrake really are.

How these games differ (and why your rig cares)

  • Test Drive Unlimited Solar Crown: Long sessions and comfort. A relaxed seat and clean monitor position matter most.
  • Taxi Life: A City Driving Simulator: Long sessions and comfort. A relaxed seat and clean monitor position matter most.

The “one rig for both” rule

If you want one setup that covers both games, prioritise adjustability first (seat slider + pedal reach), then rigidity (wheel + pedal mounts), then your screen setup.

Wheelbase, pedals and controller choice (and why your cockpit matters)

Test Drive Unlimited Solar Crown, Taxi Life: A City Driving Simulator will run on anything from an entry-level gear-driven wheel to a 20+ Nm direct drive wheelbase. The key is matching the cockpit to the forces you’re generating.

  • Entry wheels (Logitech G29/G923, Thrustmaster T248/T300) work best when the wheel mount doesn’t bounce or flex.
  • Mid-range direct drive (Fanatec CSL DD, Moza R9/R12, Asetek La Prima) benefits from a rigid 8020 cockpit so the force feedback stays clean.
  • High-end direct drive (Simucube 2, Fanatec DD1/DD2, Asetek Invicta) really wants a stiff chassis and a strong pedal deck — otherwise you feel flex instead of detail.
  • If you use a load-cell brake, cockpit stiffness often improves lap time more than upgrading wheel torque.

Cockpit choice: the part that makes everything else feel better

Open-world driving and “chill” racers don’t need the stiffest cockpit on earth. What they do need is comfort, easy entry/exit, and a wheel position that doesn’t change between sessions.

Rig picks from SimXPro

Seat setup: your “driving position” is a performance setting

Comfort is the feature here. If you’re cruising or doing long sessions, a seat that supports your lower back (and allows small posture changes) is a big quality-of-life upgrade.

  • Use a seat slider if more than one person drives — sharing a rig should take seconds, not tools.
  • Avoid an overly “locked in” bucket if you prefer relaxed sessions.
  • Match monitor height so you’re not craning your neck forward.

Seat picks that pair well with this style of game

Monitor setup: the fastest “feel” upgrade after a solid rig

For relaxed driving and manager-style games, comfort and clarity matter most. A clean single-monitor setup is often the best balance for a living-room or desk-adjacent rig.

Monitor stand options

In-game settings worth checking (before you blame your hardware)

These settings take 5–10 minutes and usually fix 80% of the “something feels off” complaints:

  • Calibrate your wheel and pedals.
  • Reduce deadzones and avoid extreme sensitivity.
  • Set a stable camera and keep your horizon consistent.
  • Tune force feedback for detail, not just strength.

Quick checklist before your first serious session

  • Calibrate wheel rotation and pedal travel in-game (do this once, then stop chasing it).
  • Set your seat distance so you can fully press the brake without locking your knee.
  • Bring the monitor closer than you think, then lower it slightly so your eyes look at the horizon naturally.
  • Do 10 minutes of slow laps to build muscle memory before pushing for a hotlap.

A simple SimXPro build that works (and how to upgrade it)

If you want a clear upgrade path: start by locking in your posture (seat + pedals), then upgrade rigidity (cockpit), then expand your view (monitor setup).

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